Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Spaces
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered train pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a police siren cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past collapsing, ivy-draped fencing panels as storm clouds form.
It is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. However one local grower has cultivated four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish berries on a sprawling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.
"I've seen individuals hiding illegal substances or other items in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, 46, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce vintage from four discreet urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. It is too clandestine to have an official name yet, but the collective's WhatsApp group is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Around the World
So far, the grower's allotment is the only one registered in the Urban Vineyards Association's forthcoming global directory, which features more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 vines on the hillsides of the French capital's historic artistic district area and more than 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. Based in Italy non-profit association is at the forefront of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the globe, including urban centers in Japan, Bangladesh and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist urban areas stay more eco-friendly and ecologically varied. These spaces protect land from construction by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the weather and the individuals who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, environment and heritage of a city," notes the president.
Mystery Polish Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting left in his allotment by a Polish family. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may seize their chance to feast again. "This is the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike noble varieties – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Across Bristol
The other members of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of Bristol's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her rondo grapes from approximately fifty vines. "I adore the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you open the vehicle windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in war-torn regions, inadvertently inherited the vineyard when she returned to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has already endured three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the idea of environmental care – of passing this on to future caretakers so they can continue producing from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
A short walk away, the final two members of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her expansive property, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "People are always surprised," she notes, indicating the interwoven vineyard. "It's astonishing to them they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Currently, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting clusters of deep violet dark berries from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her daughter, Luca. Scofield, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's Gardeners' World, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments focusing on low-processing vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she says. "It's very on trend, but really it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms come off the surfaces into the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "That's how vintages were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to eliminate the natural cultures and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches
A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest white wine varieties from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at the local university developed a passion for wine on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a difficult task to cultivate Chardonnay grapes in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is a bit bonkers," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the sole challenge faced by winegrowers. The gardener has had to install a barrier on